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“I asked my soul: What is Delhi? She replied: The world is the body and Delhi, its life.” ~ Mirza Asadullah Khan Ghalib
Delhi remains that inscrutable city of India that only begins to reveal itself after persistent, close inspections over a considerably long period of time. Once you give the city a chance, it begins to unravel its myriad faces. Delhi was once seven cities – which explains its large territory, dotted by the inescapable presence of historical monuments. Here, the past and the present live beneath the same roof and often merge together without distinction.
Travel guidebooks will perhaps caution you about this perceptibly brash city that seems to be caught in transition. Beyond the chaos and the stereotypes that abound lies a fascinating city steeped in history, craft, and culture that is worth exploring. Let’s find some ways to unravel Delhi’s indelible charm.
Majnu ka Tila
Majnu ka Tila, known famously as ‘MKT’ by all college-goers of the Delhi University north campus, is a small area inhabited by the Tibetan refugee community. MKT appears to be like Delhi’s own ‘little Tibet’, with colourful flags lining the entrance that immediately transports you to the world of this vibrant community. You will be welcomed by the sight of busy street shops full of colourful merchandise, and uncountable momo and thukpa stalls which also serve the popular Tibetan item called La-phing (a type of flat noodles made of mung-bean).
What is most charming about MKT is to see the Tibetan community setting up their own corner and thriving in this crowded city. And in the process, adding another dimension of culture and cuisine to the cosmopolitan flair of Delhi.
Unravelog tip: Indulge in an elaborate meal at the Dolma House, one of the oldest eateries in MKT, after a few rigorous hours of walking through the lanes.
Location: Majnu Ka Tila
Nearest metro station: Vidhan Sabha
Old Delhi
A trip to Delhi cannot be complete without visiting the city’s majestic Old Delhi. Once called Shahjahanabad, the city built by the Mughal ruler Shahjahan, Old Delhi will definitely take you back a few centuries in time. There’s never a dull moment in this part of the city, with crowded lanes teeming with people and businesses dating back to the 17th century. It is pretty easy to feel lost and overwhelmed in the gullies of Old Delhi!
One of the best things to do here is to explore the street food; there is no dearth of great roadside eateries, from kebabs to parathas to shahi tukdas or jalebis. Check out the famous Parathe Wali Gali for stalls selling up to 30 different kinds of parathas; the meaty delicacies of kebabs, tikkas, and niharis near the Jama Masjid area; and the very heavenly desserts that come in the form of jalebi with rabri and Daulat ki chaat.
Unravelog tip: If you have both time and tummy space after exploring the street scene, you can head to the 19th century Haveli Dharampura nestled in the lanes of Chandi Chowk, now restored for you to enjoy an affordable regal experience.
Location: Old Delhi
Nearest metro station: Chandi Chowk
Nizamuddin Dargah
Few experiences can match the ecstasy of watching a nightlong Qawwali performance by Sufi peers in the courtyard of Nizamuddin Dargah. Located in the Nizamuddin West area of Delhi, the dargah was built in honour of the Sufi saint, Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya (1238–1325 CE). The dargah complex houses more than 70 graves, including the tomb of Jahanara Begum, Emperor Shahjahan’s daughter. The management of the dargah sharif and its many activities have been looked after by the descendants of Nizamuddin Auliya.
The Qawwali nights in the dargah are something not to be missed. It is quite easy to drown in the sama of the mehfils (concerts) staged here every other day, amid the devout crowd of pilgrims and believers, surrounded by the shrine’s hypnotic Islamic architecture.
Location: Boali Gate Rd, Nizamuddin, Nizammudin West Slum, Nizamuddin West, New Delhi 110013
Nearest metro station: Indraprastha Metro Station
Connaught Place and Janpath Market
If you have friends living in Delhi, chances are you have heard about endless shopping trips to this part of the city and the roadside eating that happens thereafter. Connaught Place is the biggest financial cum commercial hub of Delhi built by the British, which took about four years to complete from 1929 to 1933. The ubiquitous whitewashed buildings with rounded pillars are the most fascinating aspect of CP (as Connaught Place is fondly known as). Designed by Robert Tor Russell, the marketplace was named after the Duke of Connaught.
There is no stopping when it comes to shopping in CP. From the underground Palika Bazaar to the crafty Janpath market, it is best to explore CP on foot so that you do not miss out on the lovely streetside stalls filled with the most colourful items, ranging from junk jewellery to funky phone covers, trendy wallets, and belts. Also indulge in some flavoured ‘paan’ (a folded snack-bite, made from fresh betel leaves) – there are variants as wild as ice-burst paan and set-on-fire paan – and explore the many chai points (tea shops) that will quench your fatigue away after a good few hours of shopping.
Unravelog tip: Do not miss out on the curio shops in Janpath market!
Location: Connaught Place and Janpath Market
Nearest metro station: Rajiv chowk
Mehrauli Archaeological Park
The Mehrauli Archaeological Park is located near the Mehrauli village settlement. For history lovers, it is a must-visit area to come face to face with some of the most stunning monuments in Delhi. The park stretches across 100 acres of green land dotted with monuments from the pre-Islamic to the colonial era. Legends trace Mehrauli to the descendants of the Pandavas. Before the slave dynasty took over (the Khiljis, the Tughlaqs, the Lodhis), Mehrauli was the Rajput ruler, Prithviraj Chauhan’s site of victory. Lal Kot or the Qila Ri Pithora stands testimony to this.
The Archaeological Park is, in short, the abode of Delhi’s history. Its cobbled lanes bear tales of the many kings, soldiers, and warriors who left their mark through grand architectural creations. Some of the most stunning monuments of the park include the tombs of Jamali Kamali, Balban, and Quli Khan; Rajon ki Baoli, Jahaz Mahal, and Zafar Mahal. The Qutub complex is located just a short distance away from the central park area.
Location: Mehrauli Archeological Park Trail, Christian Colony, Mehrauli, New Delhi 110016
Nearest metro station: Qutub Minar
Humayunpur
Once upon a time in the medieval era, Humayunpur used to be a Muslim settlement. From the 17th century onwards, it came to be inhabited by various clans of the Jat community. Today, Humayunpur is one of the few areas in Delhi that has become synonymous with the people from Northeast India – students, young professionals, and workers from diverse backgrounds who flock to Delhi every year have found footing in this nondescript part of the city that is located near Safdarjung Enclave.
What’s special about Humayunpur, you say? As a traveller, this is one of those unassuming spots of Delhi that will surprise you when you least expect it. Think quiet lanes and exciting food corners on an affordable budget. Humayunpur is teeming with restaurants that serve some of the best cuisines from the 8 northeastern states of India. Whether you are craving tangy Assamese fish curry or some spicy Naga pork, Humayunpur will provide you with ample options to relish these authentically prepared meals with the right ingredients and herbs that are otherwise very difficult to find in Delhi.
Unravelog tip: Do not forget to indulge in a Naga pork thali at Hornbill, where food is served on traditional plates.
Location: Humayunpur
Nearest metro station: Bhikaji Cama Place
Hauz Khas Village
Hauz Khas is Delhi’s own Parisian spot with charming alleys dotted with art galleries, publishing houses, concept stores, and cafes. One of the most popular hangout spots in South Delhi, Hauz Khas Village is filled with remnants of Islamic architecture, such as the must-visit Hauz Khas ruins, right in the midst of the upscale market area. The restaurants and bars stage several live performances, especially over the weekends, which include stand-ups to slam poetry.
Unravelog tip: Do not forget to stop by the Kunzum Travel Cafe for storytelling sessions with travellers and photographers. Listen to them regale you with tales of the road over cups of coffee and artisanal cookies.
Location: Hauz Khas Village
Nearest metro station: Hauz Khas
Lotus Temple
The Lotus Temple, also known as the Bahai House of Worship, is a white marble structure that radiates peace even at first glance. The sprawling green campus of the temple stands in contrast with the white flower-like dome of the Lotus Temple. Hundreds of devotees and visitors who seek peace and quiet flock to the grounds of the temple for hours of meditation and silent prayers. There is no deity or idol in this temple which makes it a unique place of worship. The Bahai Lotus Temple is a rather unique place of worship and undoubtedly, one of the world’s most beautiful religious buildings and sites of prayer.
Location: Lotus Temple Rd, Bahapur, Shambhu Dayal Bagh, Kalkaji, New Delhi 110019
Nearest metro station: Kalkaji
Prerana
Karuna Ezara Parikh